Yanaka, Part II

Mari, my guide, gave me a map, told me to go and checkout a popular outdoor market, Yanaka Ginza, and then she had to leave. I began to explore the area with no definite plan in mind, and happened upon an interesting looking house. I was standing in front of Asakura Museum of Sculpture, the home of the famous sculptor, Fumio Asakura, turned into a museum at his request after his passing.

The front sign read: A sculptor's eye. I checked in my bag because they asked me to. A docent near the entrance, who wanted to practice his English, engaged me in a long conversation. I had a hard time getting away from him. And finally, when I was able to break loose, the museum was about to close, and I had to rush.

This museum is off the beaten path, and I do recommend it. You go up several staircases where you discover hidden spaces, sculptures, and tools. Fumio Asakura also held classes for his students in his house. The last climb up leads to a rooftop garden with views of what feels like the old Japan. Had the docent not pestered me, I could have easily spent an hour there, just taking in all the views, the mood, and the flavors it had to offer. More info here.

I continued with my stroll, and ran into shops that had handmade items. In the first one, there was a man with a sewing machine who made things, and sold them on his premises. I just thought that his business was different. It was disorderly, with a homey feeling. The guy working there was kind and friendly.

At the second store, I browsed around, and found a book cover which I bought. It is now covering one of my favorite books, The Portrait of a Lady by Henry James. Feeling a bit lost when I stepped outside, I asked a couple of teenagers how to get to the open market. They pointed the way, and I left.

On my way, I saw this cute kid walking by himself afterschool, and I had to take a picture of him and his Randoseru—a style of backpack all Japanese students use.

It was getting dark by the time I got to the outdoor market. There were small shops and food stalls. I bought a gift—a small change purse that looked like a turtle, sesame seed soft served ice cream, and two small sweet potatoes to take back to my hotel. The elderly lady selling the potatoes spoke only Japanese. From her hand gesture, I understood that the potatoes came in pairs. So, I bought a pair, and tried to ask her for a take away box when she wagged her index finger at me, saying "Nein." Nein means no in German. I think she was used to dealing with European customers. Anyway, I said okay, and took my potatoes on a thin sheet of paper. She gestured to me to come back, perhaps because she felt sorry for me, and decided to give me a small plastic container to carry it in.

I ran into Zakuro lamp shop by accident. They teach students how to make Turkish mosaic lamp. It was enjoyable to spend a few minutes watching the students work. If I was staying in Tokyo for a longer period, I would have liked to have participated. Below are more pix, and a tip, in case you're interested in visiting the area.

Note: If you go to Yanaka, and decide to walk aimlessly like me, and get lost, make sure that you know how to get back. Phone maps don't always work, and Japanese subways (in comparison to the straight forward ones of Hong Kong, France, and Germany), are not the easiest to figure out. My hotel was a bit far from where I was, and because Yanaka is a local, non-tourist area, Japanese Taxi drivers who pass by with empty cars do not like to give rides to foreigners. They are uncomfortable with the people who do not speak the language. And Japanese pedestrians in this area also have trust issues with foreigners. So, it's not always easy to ask someone for help. I managed to get back to my hotel using the subway, but it took a bit of an effort. 

Yanaka, Tokyo, Part I

Yanaka is a local neighborhood in Tokyo with a traditional Japanese ambience. My tour guide, Mari, introduced me to this area, and used her knowledge to give me an authentic Japanese experience. With the exception of a few Europeans, there aren't that many foreigners in the area, at least that was my experience when I visited. I talk about Yanaka in my book, The American Outsider, where Tessa and one of her activist friends, Akira, hang out. So, I will not get into too many details here.

This is a famous Himalayan cedar tree in Yanaka, planted when it was small by the original owner of Mikado bread store, about 90-100 years ago. Closed permanently, the shop is situated behind the tree. The tree was to be cut down to make room for a new development, but a neighborhood committee fought against it, and so, the tree stays with a sign on it, indicating that it is a protected tree.

There is a large cemetery in the area, and several temples. The grave markers have the name of the donors on them.

Ueno Sakuragi Atari—three traditional homes built in 1900s were renovated, and turned into businesses—Yanaka Beer Hall, Vaner Bakery, and OshiOlive.

OshiOlive sells olives, and other items, and balsamic or rice vinegar drinks served in schooners. We ordered ours here, and took them with us to the Beer Hall. Recently, a bunch of recipes popped up online, but these recipes are not as tasty as the drinks made at OshiOlive. I recommend the balsamic drink. Mari was kind enough to let me try hers. So good...

The food at Yanaka Beer Hall was yum. Our menu was in Japanese, and so, Mari ordered for us.

Mari was trying to describe the shrimp dish to me, and I thought that she was talking about the Agemochi. Ahijo is a Spanish dish—shrimp sautéed in olive oil, garlic, and red pepper—which I skipped and traded with Mari for some of the amazing tasting Konnyaku. (Apologies for the upside down video 😏).

Konnyaku (konjac jelly. It's the cubed Jelly looking dish) has zero calories, is flavorless, but with the right sauce, it tastes yum. Here is an online recipe (actually three recipes). 

Agemochi (the two round sticky things on a stick) is fried mochi with sweet and salty sauce, and nori seaweed added on top.

The servers and the kitchen staff were super nice, and allowed me to take their picture. Afterwards, we sat down on an outside bench, and had tea. I had so much fun, in fact, the entire day was incredible, and a learning experience of getting lost in time.

Kayaba Coffee is a popular place. It made it through WWII, but shut down after the owner passed away. It was renovated a few years later, keeping its traditional Japanese charm. It  serves breakfast, and lunch food, ice cream, drinks, cakes, tea, and gourmet coffee. Downstairs, there are western style tables and chairs, and upstairs you sit on the floor.

Yoshidaya liquor store (1910-1986) was turned into Shitamachi Museum Annex, across the street from Kayaba Coffee. There is no entrance fee. It has been revived to look like what one would find in a typical liquor store during the Meiji period—tatami mat, sake barrels and bottles, artifacts, and wooden doors and panels. 

Well, that's about it for now. Hope you enjoyed. Yanaka, part II, will be posted soon...