Yanaka, Tokyo, Part I

Yanaka is a local neighborhood in Tokyo with a traditional Japanese ambience. My tour guide, Mari, introduced me to this area, and used her knowledge to give me an authentic Japanese experience. With the exception of a few Europeans, there aren't that many foreigners in the area, at least that was my experience when I visited. I talk about Yanaka in my book, The American Outsider, where Tessa and one of her activist friends, Akira, hang out. So, I will not get into too many details here.

This is a famous Himalayan cedar tree in Yanaka, planted when it was small by the original owner of Mikado bread store, about 90-100 years ago. Closed permanently, the shop is situated behind the tree. The tree was to be cut down to make room for a new development, but a neighborhood committee fought against it, and so, the tree stays with a sign on it, indicating that it is a protected tree.

There is a large cemetery in the area, and several temples. The grave markers have the name of the donors on them.

Ueno Sakuragi Atari—three traditional homes built in 1900s were renovated, and turned into businesses—Yanaka Beer Hall, Vaner Bakery, and OshiOlive.

OshiOlive sells olives, and other items, and balsamic or rice vinegar drinks served in schooners. We ordered ours here, and took them with us to the Beer Hall. Recently, a bunch of recipes popped up online, but these recipes are not as tasty as the drinks made at OshiOlive. I recommend the balsamic drink. Mari was kind enough to let me try hers. So good...

The food at Yanaka Beer Hall was yum. Our menu was in Japanese, and so, Mari ordered for us.

Mari was trying to describe the shrimp dish to me, and I thought that she was talking about the Agemochi. Ahijo is a Spanish dish—shrimp sautéed in olive oil, garlic, and red pepper—which I skipped and traded with Mari for some of the amazing tasting Konnyaku. (Apologies for the upside down video 😏).

Konnyaku (konjac jelly. It's the cubed Jelly looking dish) has zero calories, is flavorless, but with the right sauce, it tastes yum. Here is an online recipe (actually three recipes). 

Agemochi (the two round sticky things on a stick) is fried mochi with sweet and salty sauce, and nori seaweed added on top.

The servers and the kitchen staff were super nice, and allowed me to take their picture. Afterwards, we sat down on an outside bench, and had tea. I had so much fun, in fact, the entire day was incredible, and a learning experience of getting lost in time.

Kayaba Coffee is a popular place. It made it through WWII, but shut down after the owner passed away. It was renovated a few years later, keeping its traditional Japanese charm. It  serves breakfast, and lunch food, ice cream, drinks, cakes, tea, and gourmet coffee. Downstairs, there are western style tables and chairs, and upstairs you sit on the floor.

Yoshidaya liquor store (1910-1986) was turned into Shitamachi Museum Annex, across the street from Kayaba Coffee. There is no entrance fee. It has been revived to look like what one would find in a typical liquor store during the Meiji period—tatami mat, sake barrels and bottles, artifacts, and wooden doors and panels. 

Well, that's about it for now. Hope you enjoyed. Yanaka, part II, will be posted soon...